Girls and surfing
The exact dates of occurrence of surfing as a sport does not exist, we only know that its history is measured by centuries.
This is an extreme sport and unconventional entertainment was born in Hawaii in ancient times. Initially, the wave train with the help of the board could only a small number of people are now surfing much more accessible.
Immediately after the surf is fun was monopolized by the royal family. To conquer the waves could only be members of the ruling family, as well as close to them especially. The government sought to control both their land and water space, any encroachment on that, and on the other seriously punished.
For example, if a mere mortal to acquire the board and try to learn surfing, its expected imminent death penalty. I did not want to risk anyone, so many years the sport was not able to spread to the masses.
On the night surfboards privileged person left right on the beach. The locals did not dare to think about the theft of the royal relics, and the reason for this was not only a sense of overwhelming fear.
The fact that the weight of the first boards up to 70 kilograms, in fact made from a piece of solid wood. A size of such boards ranged from 2 to 5 7, 5 meters, such an overall thing solve abduct.
However, the common people were also indirectly involved in surfing. When the local nobility to organize competitions, people gathered on the beach and watched the show, it is not forbidden.
A lot of betting, which gave a fascinating process. Preparing for the competition was a real ritual, each preceded by a royal priests cast spells designed to elicit a strong wave.
Later in the Hawaiian Islands arrived missionaries, bearers of Christian culture. They were opposed to such extreme entertainment, in their opinion, this method of relaxation can not be combined with the laws of the Christian faith. Despite this, the local people did not cease to take an interest in surfing.
The situation changed in the 19th century, there was a turning point, after which surfing has become accessible to all, and even more popular. The government at that time was Hawaiian Princess Kaiulani, she is actively engaged in the promotion of sports, including among the inhabitants of the European continent.
The worldwide success of surfing found in the middle of the 20th century, the commercial industry also picked up a paste-to-date trend. Surfboards began to be produced in many concerns, so that their value has shrunk dramatically. Now surfboard could afford anyone. Availability spawned even more popular at the moment surfing is one of the most popular water sports.