Old city of Moscow
• Old City of Moscow
Let's now walk through the old town of Moscow. Yes, in Moscow, as in any normal European city (Peter does not count), there is an old town, which we lost. Or rather not so much lost as he was taken from us and still can not be returned. Old Moscow city - is the Kremlin, officially the biggest medieval fortress according to the Guinness Book of Records and completely closed for almost 100 years ago, an area that has area and is not seen.
But all in order.
For example, the hem of the Kremlin in Moscow in the XVII century
The remarkable picture-reconstruction of our contemporaries - artist Sergey Glushkov.
As you can see, live in the city center then meant to live in the Kremlin, t. E., As in many European cities, within the historical part of the city, surrounded by ramparts.
By the XX century the population of the Kremlin, of course, somewhat thinned, but still the Kremlin has remained a full area of the city, all the gates were opened, and the Secret Garden was one of the favorite places for walks with beautiful views.
In the background stands the monument to Alexander II, which the Bolsheviks were, of course dismantled almost immediately after the revolution
Among the green is seen little domes of churches of the Annunciation on Zhitnyaya yard.
So this Attached to the tower of the Kremlin Church looked until it was demolished in 1932
Some very cozy corner of the provincial, picturesque, even shop squinted.
The temple stood on the site of the old Zhitnyaya court, which have been gathered from public lands whole grains - corn, and hay, oats and other supplies that were distributed later between the "sovereign's people". This, in the truest sense of the ancient Russian state trough. The stone church was built here in 1731, and before 1831 near a tower in the wall were Portomoynye gate through which the Kremlin laundress went to erase the sovereign of the river "trousers". Garden View, there are now arranged the helipad
Again, note the Belem Tower. As shown and today's experience, something unpainted Moscow local authorities has always been a mess, curbs painted so far, so far paint the Kremlin, but if earlier it occasionally whitened, it came to power, the Bolsheviks began to paint it in red color. You will be next to the Kremlin, note - most of the walls and towers is not the original color of the brick, and it is painted in red.
But completely closed for commoners area on the back side of the Spasskaya tower and preserved Temple of St. Catherine Ascension Monastery.
City perfect center thoroughfare. Walk through any gate and also goes
Spassky Gate - a way out of the Kremlin onto Red Square.
Now permanently closed and only for employees of the Presidential Administration and the FSO open
Here in the Kremlin was not preserved fairytale kind Miracles Monastery
The building of the Senate ... The courtyard is now completely closed, and even today there is no photo.
It is interesting that originally crowned the dome of St. George, striking serpent, but during the war in 1812, he disappeared. They say that the French took as a trophy, and when the District Court is located in a building, it crowned with a brief inscription under it "the law." At that Muscovites responded epigram: "In Russia there is no law, and post and post crown."
In Soviet times, even an inscription "LAW" dismantled
What is most interesting, in our time, to restore the historical truth, and again hoisted St. George.
What else is hiding in Moscow's Old Town?
For example, The Fun Palace of the XVII century
It is an amazing old photograph. On the one hand the old palace, and on the other - living quarters, even the laundry is dried.
Now here again, absolutely closed area, and it is located Kremlin Commandant's Office
We can not see in our old town and amazing arches Arsenal. Again, the area is closed
And on the wall in his own old town you will not let go.
Before the revolution, the Kremlin even a winter garden, please come, enjoy
The funny thing is that it exists today, but the area is so closed that even its existence no one really suspects
And before the Kremlin even a cab ride you can jauntily. Who is hurt?
At the Tsar Bell some beggars sitting. City live their lives.
Speaking of beggars
For example, a modernist legend, the artist Alphonse Mucha walked through the Kremlin and took a photo:
He returned home, showed, shook it up and down and as a result wrote the painting "Winter Night":
It was a great old town living, but, as you know, everything changes when they come. Bolsheviks.
To begin with, to drive the cadets, the Kremlin has been shelled. Here, for example, it looked like a result of the Small Nicholas Palace, which eventually tore down and built instead of monasteries and a large office building, now occupied by the Presidential Administration
misdirected Germans sealed Lenin kept his promise, the government was overthrown, but his colleagues for some reason not in a hurry to leave the First World War that was so necessary to Germany, already barely fought on two fronts, but it is not less actively advancing deep into Russia, which made the Bolshevik government was seriously frightened and decided, just in case, to move from Petrograd to Moscow. The world still has been concluded, but it turned out that within the Russian Bolshevik rule there is much more threats than from the outside, so the old Russian tradition princes dug the Bolsheviks in the Kremlin. The old town was closed to ordinary people, and Spassky gate shut and still not open.
That is interesting, guarded by the Soviet regime the Latvian Riflemen, which was very convenient. First, non-native, relatives in Moscow, no, do not go home, live there in the Kremlin, friends among the local people do not have, so in case of any dust-shoot at the Muscovites will be without a twinge of conscience. Secondly, many even Russian language do not own, and therefore it will be difficult to negotiate local to them, if anything. Mercenaries and mercenaries there. For the same reason, the Vatican is still guarded exclusively Swiss mercenaries of the German cantons do not speak Italian.
Latvian Riflemen suppressed uprising in Yaroslavl, Kaluga, Moore and other cities. Teodors Eyhmans, one of the Latvian Riflemen, then made a brilliant career, was one of the initiators of Stalinist repression and the first chief of the Gulag. So once again, when Latvia will start to cry of Soviet repression, remember these facts.
But we are about the old city. Came the new owners ...
... and completely shut down the whole city. Of course, inside the walls, it is somehow safer.
The first Soviet leaders and worked and lived in the Kremlin. All of it almost did not go out without a guard.
On the territory of even a kindergarten for children of party workers:
The Kremlin was closed all 1920 all 1930 all 1940 ... Muscovites have even got used to the Kremlin - is the place of residence of the authorities and finally ceased to consider him as a district of the city.
Opened the Kremlin to visit only under Khrushchev, in 1955, or rather discovered a small part of a passage to the Cathedral Square. In essence then, as now discovered, and most of the native district of the city still closed. At the same time forbidden to live in the area, with the last tenants were discharged from the Kremlin only in 1961, the Kremlin has finally turned into a museum in which not only do not walk freely, but even restrictions on photographing removed only a few years ago. To finally finish the old city were demolished old buildings Arsenal:
A Great Kremlin Palace was built in their place in a huge pit
Okay, destroyed part of the old city, but even on the photo to the right of the Soviet city is still alive.
As you can see if he is alive, and along the walls and in closed areas, now occupied by the commandant's office, but, alas, almost a hundred years ago, the authorities prefer to live under siege, holding the defense inside the walls.
Better still look at an old postcard.
White Kremlin, the white garden, the ice on the river. Old city! Love Moscow!